Setenil de las Bodegas – a town under the rocks

Setenil de las Bodegas is one of the most picturesque and unusual places in Andalusia, Spain. If you visit it, you will feel like you have wandered into another world. Houses built not in the rock but literally under it look as if the force of the massif above them should crush them at any moment. It is a place worth seeing with your own eyes.

What makes Setenil de las Bodegas unique?

Setenil de las Bodegas is located in Andalusia, Spain, in the province of Cádiz, approximately 100 km northeast of Cádiz and about 20 km from the famous Ronda. And you usually don’t even notice it yourself, and not if you drive by. So, what makes this place so unique that it’s worth stopping for a moment?

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The town stretches along the Río Guadalporcún, which has carved a deep valley in the local limestone cliffs over the centuries. Unlike other white villages in Andalucia, which are built on top of hills, Setenil is partially planted as if underground, directly under the rock overhangs. Many houses have walls and roofs made of the rock massif itself. This unique construction method probably served as protection from the sun and weather and, at the same time, made excellent use of natural resources. Thanks to this, the town has become a magnet for tourists and photographers.

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History of Setenil de las Bodegas

The history of Setenil dates back to prehistoric times. The local caves were already inhabited five thousand years ago, as evidenced by the number of local archaeological excavations. The name “Setenil” is derived from the Latin “septem nihil” meaning “seven times nothing” – probably referring to the seven failed attempts by Christians to capture the local Moorish fortress during the reconquista (= period of Muslim rule) before it finally fell in 1484.

After the conquest, the town began to develop as an agricultural center, mainly thanks to vineyards and wine production. The name “Bodegas” (cellars) is derived from the presence of many wine cellars that made the town famous. Unfortunately, the vineyards were destroyed during the 19th century by the révocaz, and since then, the town has adapted to other forms of agriculture.

Setenil de las Bodegas today

Today, Setenil de las Bodegas is a popular tourist destination attracting visitors from all over the world thanks to its unique architecture and atmosphere. Narrow streets, picturesque white houses, and rock walls overhead create the feeling of entering another world. The city is still alive and dominated by an atmosphere of peace and well-being. The shops here mainly offer souvenirs and local production products. There are also plenty of restaurants and cafes where you can enjoy the local atmosphere a little more in the shadow of the rock overhangs.

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What to visit in Setenil de las Bodegas?

• Calle Cuevas del Sol – Probably the most famous street in Setenil. It is lined with houses built directly under massive rock overhangs. On this street you will find cozy cafes, restaurants and bars where you can enjoy traditional tapas and enjoy a unique view of the surroundings.
• Calle Cuevas de la Sombra – Another fascinating street where the houses are literally carved into the rock. While in Calle Cuevas del Sol you can enjoy the sun, here you will be surrounded by the shadow of the rock wall.
• Setenil Castle – This Moorish castle dates back to the 12th century, and from its tower, you can enjoy a magnificent view of the entire town and surrounding countryside.
• Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación – Built on the foundations of the original mosque, the 15th century church is an example of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It is a beautiful place to relax and explore the history of the town.
• Local gastronomy – Setenil is known for its excellent gastronomy, especially meat products such as “chorizo” sausage or “jamón” ham. Local restaurants offer dishes that combine traditional Andalusian recipes with local products.

What is next, and how do you get to Setenil de las Bodegas?

The easiest way to get to Setenil de las Bodegas is to fly to Malaga or Seville and rent a car. Since the most interesting part of the town is underground, it is logical that there is quite a shortage of parking spaces here. That is, mainly about those who are nearby.

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Most parking spaces are located in parking lots roughly 1-1.5 km from Calle Cuevas del Sol. So if you plan your visit on one of the busier days, expect a shorter walk.

You can experience the entire tour of the city here without spending a single euro. Only entrance fees to individual buildings and museums are paid, but nothing is charged for a walk along the streets in the shadow of the rocks. And if you arrive here outside of the main summer season, you will have the opportunity to walk around the town with a slow loitering step without having to be careful if you accidentally bump into someone.

A trip to Setenil de las Bodegas can be combined with a visit to Ronda, 20 kilometers away, and you can go to both places in one day.

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